In the 90's the DMD display was introduced to the game of pinball adding a wole new dimension to the game, now you could have video modes, multiple hi scores retained and fantastic graphic display throughout gameplay.Gone are the painted cabinets, replaced by highly colourful cabinet decals, and the gameplay got deeper, a lot deeper than ever before.
Many of these titles are wildy collectible these days. APR can assist with purchase of these modern games as well as full restoration services including cabinet redecaling.
Dont forget to check out the listing of my current inventory of machines readily available to be restored for you
Similar to 80's machines, these are electronic games and they are the most commonly sold games in Australia. These are almost always imported into the country by dealers with the desire to make a quick profit by taking shortcuts. There are many pitfalls in buying these machines, and you will find numerous short cuts when you look at a game that is not done properly.
The golden rule with these games is to look around and compare the different levels of work done. Typically, these machines take well over
90's games (often called DMDs) can be real centerpieces of any collection when reconditioned or restored correctly. They can also be frustrating and be plagued with intermittent faults. These games are almost always rushed out of the workshop and shoved in line with the rest of the games in the showroom. When these machines are reconditioned correctly, they can look very close to the way they did the day they were opened for the first time. The first time buyer needs to be aware of the pitfalls of buying a game without due diligence. Take a look around at the different dealers and make up your mind once you know the facts. NEVER impulse buy. I've NEVER heard of a "happy ending" with an impulse pinball !
Customers often tell me that they want to buy a "cheap container pinball" as they think they will save money. That is rarely correct, as the game is cheap for a reason - it needs MORE work !
I will recondition or restore just about any game that is presented to me. High End Restorations on DMDs are no problem. The term "High End Restoration" is used rather loosely these days, but I can assure any customer, there are a handful of passionate and dedicated restorers that can deliver on the promise of a "High End Restoration".
At APR, I welcome the challenge !
Playfield plastic posts. Are they clean ? They should always be replaced. They are cheap and they make a difference to the machine's appearance.
Look at the Pop Bumper bodies - Are they old and dirty ? This is the most common shortcut, and it is the first indication that the game has not been reconditioned or restored correctly. These parts are CHEAP, but they take time to replace. But the main feature of just about any pinball is the Pop Bumper action.
The metal posts - were they removed and polished ? Often these are broken, or the incorrect type. They should always be removed and checked. Often sellers post pictures of the their machines half done with the metal posts still in place and those old pop bumper bodies STILL in the game ! That's a job that has been half done
Flipper Kits - There's no excuse. These have to be replaced. A mandatory step in the reconditioning process.
Coil Sleeves - All the mechanical parts need to be removed, checked and refitted after cleaning and polishing. If the machine still has the old coil sleeves, then the game won't play as it should.
Rubbers and Globes - ALL have to be done. Always look under the playfield and look for signs that the globe holders have corroded. Any sign of corrosion will lead to trouble down the track.
Ramps - Look for ramp protectors - Always a good sign, but have a look behind the ramp protector - is the ramp protector hiding a broken ramp ?
Cabinet - Often overlooked. Sometimes, not even vacuumed !
Front door - Looks great when repainted, but was the door straightened and removed for the repainting process ?
Fuses - Every single game I've either owned, repaired or restored has had the wrong fuses. Often "over fused" to hide electrical or electronic problems. It is much easier to over fuse than repair. Mains fuses in imported games are almost always left in the game. These are rated higher than Australian fuses, so these MUST be changed.
Where's the manual ? Most likely on eBay. DEMAND the manual with your game. They are often removed to increase the profit on the game and ensure you don't attempt to repair the game yourself.
Here are a few random images from games fully restored by APR in the past